Storing motorcycle gear for the off-season comes down to four rules: clean everything before storing, remove the armor, keep it cool/dark/dry, and let it breathe. The biggest mistakes are storing dirty gear (grime and sweat degrade fabric over months), sealing it in plastic (traps moisture, causes mildew), and leaving armor in the pockets (deforms the pockets and sets the foam). Done right, gear comes out in spring exactly as you left it. Done wrong, you discover mildew, pests, or misshapen armor when you need the gear most.
Why off-season storage matters
If you live somewhere winter means the bike goes away for three to five months, your gear is sitting unused for a meaningful chunk of the year. How you store it determines whether it emerges in spring ready to ride — or with problems you'll discover at the worst moment.
Long-term storage exposes gear to slow threats that don't matter over a weekend: mildew from trapped moisture, fading and fiber degradation from UV, pest damage from moths, deformation from poor positioning, and odor from grime left to sit. None of these happen overnight. All of them happen over a winter.
The good news: proper storage is simple and cheap. A bit of cleaning and the right location is most of the battle.
Step 1: Clean everything before storing
Never store dirty gear. This is the most-skipped and most-important step. Bugs, road grime, sweat salts, and skin oils all degrade fabric and leather over months of storage. What's a minor smudge in October becomes a set stain or a mildew nucleus by March.
Denim and protected denim
Cold wash, inside-out, mild detergent, air dry completely. Make sure it's *fully* dry before storage — any residual moisture invites mildew on the Kevlar lining. Full method in our Kevlar washing guide.
Leather
Wipe down with a damp cloth, remove any salt or grime, then condition with a leather conditioner. Let it dry and absorb fully before storage. Stored dirty leather can develop permanent staining and dry out at the grime points.
Textile
Wash per the manufacturer's instructions, re-proof the waterproofing if needed (Nikwax or similar), and dry completely. Empty all pockets.
Helmet
Wipe the shell, remove and wash the liner and cheek pads if they're removable, and let everything dry fully. A sweat-soaked helmet liner stored for months grows bacteria and develops a permanent smell.
Step 2: Remove the armor
Take all CE armor inserts out of jackets, jeans, and vests before long-term storage.
Why: Leaving armor in position for months can deform the armor pockets and, with some foam armors, create a permanent "set" — the foam holds the bent shape it was stored in, reducing its protective performance and fit.
Store the armor flat in a drawer or box, out of direct sunlight. Don't stack heavy objects on it. When you pull the gear out in spring, the armor goes back in fresh and un-deformed.
Step 3: Store in the right conditions
Three environmental factors matter: temperature, humidity, and light.
Temperature — cool and stable
Avoid attics (bake in late summer and early autumn) and uninsulated garages with wild temperature swings. A closet in the living space is ideal. Stable, moderate temperature protects both leather and the Kevlar lining.
Humidity — low
Damp is the enemy. Basements and unheated garages often hold humidity that causes mildew on fabric and leather, and rust on hardware (zippers, snaps, rivets). If you must store somewhere humid, use a dehumidifier or moisture-absorbing products (silica gel, DampRid) in the storage area.
Light — dark
UV degrades the Kevlar lining and fades dyes over months. Store gear in a dark closet or in opaque garment bags. A jacket hung in a sunny window all winter will show fading and lining degradation by spring.
Step 4: Let it breathe — never seal in plastic
Do not store gear in sealed plastic bags or bins for months. Sealed plastic traps residual moisture and prevents the gear from breathing, which is exactly how mildew starts. A plastic dry-cleaning bag over a jacket for one winter is a classic mildew mistake.
Use breathable storage instead:
- Cotton or canvas garment bags for jackets and vests
- Open shelving or breathable boxes for folded items
- Hanging on wide, padded hangers for structured pieces
If you want dust protection, a breathable cotton garment bag does the job without trapping moisture. Save the plastic for short-term dust covers only.
Step 5: Position correctly
How you physically position gear over months affects its shape:
- Jackets and vests: Hang on wide or padded hangers — never wire hangers, which distort the shoulders over months. Button or zip them partway to hold their shape.
- Jeans: Fold loosely over a hanger bar or lay flat. Avoid sharp crease-folds in the same place for months (creates permanent wear lines).
- Boots: Stuff with newspaper or boot trees to hold their shape; store upright.
- Helmet: Store in its bag, upright, not balanced on the mirror or a hook (which can deform the liner over time).
- Gloves: Lay flat; don't crush under heavy items.
Step 6: Protect against pests
Moths and other fabric pests target stored natural fibers — wool linings, cotton denim, leather. Over a winter, an unprotected closet can host real damage.
Natural deterrents that work:
- Cedar blocks or cedar hangers — moths avoid the scent
- Lavender sachets — natural moth deterrent, pleasant smell
- Regular airing — if you can, take gear out once mid-winter to air and inspect
Avoid mothballs directly on gear. The chemicals can affect the Kevlar lining and leave a lasting odor that's very hard to remove. Cedar and lavender do the job without the downsides.
A spring re-commissioning checklist
When riding season returns, before your first ride:
- Inspect denim/leather for any mildew, pest damage, or staining that developed
- Check the Kevlar lining for any degradation (hold to light, look for thinning)
- Reinsert all armor, checking it sits correctly in the pockets
- Inspect armor for cracking, hardening, or deformation
- Check helmet liner and straps; replace helmet if it's over 5 years old
- Re-proof waterproofing on textile/denim if it's a wet-season start
- Air everything out for a day before the first ride
For winterizing gear you will keep using through the cold months (rather than storing), see our winter riding prep guide.
Special note: storing gear that took a crash
If any gear took a crash impact during the season, don't store it for reuse — replace it. Crash-impacted helmets, armor, and abrasion-damaged textiles/denim have often-invisible damage that compromises protection. Storing it over winter doesn't heal it. Replace before next season.
FAQ
- How should I store motorcycle gear over winter?
- Clean everything first, remove the armor, and store in a cool, dark, low-humidity space using breathable garment bags (never sealed plastic). Hang jackets on wide hangers, fold jeans loosely, and add cedar or lavender to deter pests.
- Can I store motorcycle gear in plastic bags?
- No — not for long-term storage. Sealed plastic traps moisture and causes mildew. Use breathable cotton or canvas garment bags instead. Plastic is fine only as a short-term dust cover.
- Should I take the armor out of my jacket for storage?
- Yes, for long-term (months) storage. Leaving armor in the pockets for months can deform the pockets and set the foam into a bent shape, reducing fit and protection. Store armor flat, separately.
- Where's the best place to store motorcycle gear?
- A cool, dark, dry closet in your living space. Avoid attics (too hot seasonally), damp basements (mildew), and sunny spots (UV degrades the lining and fades dye). Stable temperature and low humidity are the priorities.
- How do I keep moths out of stored riding gear?
- Use cedar blocks or lavender sachets as natural deterrents, and air the gear out mid-winter if possible. Avoid mothballs directly on gear — the chemicals can affect the Kevlar lining and leave a lasting odor.
- Do I need to clean gear before storing it?
- Yes — always. Grime, sweat salts, and oils degrade fabric and leather over months, and dirt becomes set stains or mildew nuclei. Clean and fully dry everything before storage.
